People keep asking me if the bike will be done by spring?

So I have sat down and made out a list of what, just off the top of my head, is left to do.

1. Finish rebuilding Final drive *** completed 3-27-11 ***
2. Finish wiring the neutral and brake switches and the feed wires to the tail light.***Done***
3. Install new Rear Brake Linings.*** Done***
4. Rebuild Rear Shock Absorbers*** completed 3-27-11 ***
5. Replace the Rear Fender Wires*** completed 3-27-11 ***
6. Lube splines and re-install Transmission*** completed 3-28-11 ***
7. Install driveshaft spacer plate,*** completed 3-20-11 *** driveshaft and swingarm***Done***
8. Do final swingarn adjustment ***Done***
9. Grease swingarm ***Done***
10. Take off front wheel, have new tires installed and wheels trued ***Done***
11. Install final drive***Done***
12. Install rear fender***Done***
13. Install headstock bearings
14. Install all Bowden Cables ***Done***
15. Replace front Shocks ***Done***
16. Pack bearings and Re-install wheels ***Done***
17. Install fuel tank***Done***
18. Finish solo seat mountings***Done***
19. Install battery and test electrics***Done***
20. Fill trans, driveshaft tube, Final Drive and Engine***Done***
21. Set timing and carbs***Done***
22. Set points***Done***
23. Mount exhaust pipes***Done***
24. Start engine***Done***
25. re-set points and timing, and valves***Done***
26. Go for my First ride!***Done*** 120 miles on her so far!

Simple? SURE!

I also need to put a new radiator and electric fans in the 1958 Station Wagon, and do a few things to the 1976 Motorhome to get it ready to sell… And I work 6 day weeks til mid april.

So….. Not likely I will be “done” when the weather gets warm, but I will be CLOSER!

Up Next https://kirkusblog.com/2011/03/01/das-bike-projekt-fine-drive-done/

Anke-eve is ready to ride!

As you may remember fluid is moving from the Driveshaft Tube into the Final drive, bad news as this fluid overfills the final drive and then gunks up the brake shoes.

So today we pull the final drive apart to replace the seals and check the gear wear!

The captions tell the story.

The 1 5/16 inch socket needed for the 4 slot ring removal tool

the cleaned final drive

Heat the drive around the ring first

The 4 slotted ring holds the seal

See how the “teeth” fit into the slots

With the ring out the bearing is exposed, it will not need to be replaced

the new seal

pressing out the old seal from behind

The Bare Ring without a seal in it

Brake shoes have to come off to take the inner drive cover off

The brake shaft has to be marked and removed

The brake shaft has to be marked and removed

Take care not to lose this washer

with the shaft removed, lever the shoes together to remove

with the shaft removed, lever the shoes together to remove

6 nuts hold the cover on

The cover has threads in it at 2 points, putting removal bolts in, and tightening them jacks the cover away from the housing

the cover is off, it will need to be heated to seperate the ring gear

you can see the stain from the level of the hypoid, the pinion gear looks in great shape

The ring gear is in great shape, too

Place the cover on wood blocks, heat it, and the ring gear drops out!

Inside the cover, here is the seal that was causing all the problems

The spline gear looks perfect

all ready for a new seal

The splines look great!

Click on the photos to enlarge!

Up Next https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/25/das-bike-projekt-what-is-left-to-do/

As you MAy remember I had to use rather destructive means to remove the oil pump cover, and had to order newer parts that had proper bolts. This has held up my putting the Flywheel and Clutch back together, well, no longer! MAXBMW has sent me the parts, and on they go! Click to enlarge….

Up Next https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/24/das-bike-project-pulling-down-the-final-drive/

The New Design Pump Cover uses standard bolts

Torquing the Oil Pump Cover, after installig the new O-Ring, and some RTV

New Fasteners for the Flywheel

The Flywheel can go on 3 different wrong ways, and one correct one

R90S Pressure Ring

R90S Pressure Ring

R90S Clutch Spring

R90S Clutch Spring

Special Moly 60 Paste

new spring lubed with moly paste

new spring lubed with moly paste

Brand new pressure plate

Brand new pressure plate

Brand new pressure plate

The heavy duty disk in place

The /5 Cluch Disk Centering Tool

The Clutch has to be kept centered as the spring is slowly compressed

The Clutch has to be kept centered as the spring is slowly compressed

Bag of New Cluch Fasteners

New Fasteners

All Done!

Just A couple images of the flywheel, mostly noteable because there really isnt anything wrong with it!

Up Next https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/24/das-bike-projekt-oil-pump-cover-and-flywheel-re-install/

I found a cheap trans, but the input shaft seal area looks about as gunky as mine, so I am going to replace the seal as long as I am in there. The old one it very hard and brittle. An easy fix while I have things apart. I replaced the throwout bearing and seals while i was in there, too. And moved over my /2 kick lever and shifter.

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Up Next  https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/24/das-bike-projekt-flywheel-inspection/

Next step is pulling the flywheel to replace the rear crank main seal, and the oil pump seal.

Todd helped me fab up a flywheel stop, and puller adapter, and also helped when the old style phillips head oil pump cover screws refused to budge and we had to resort to heat and cutting. Good news is it all got done, bad news is it took all day, and i will have to order a few more parts! Click photos below to enlarge.

The Cycleworks Main Seal installer, along with my prototype flyweel puller adapter

Todd keeping his Tool Cool! milling the flywheel puller adapter(tm)

Why use a drill press when you can use a 60 year old milling machine?

Getting ready to test the flywheel puller adapter

Flywheel off, bad news is that those screws holding the oil pump cover on are going to be a bear

getting ready to clean the bellhousing area

Seal and oil pump cover removed.

Cycleworks seal installer, with the old and new seals

Intalling the new mainseal

seal oiled and in place

Next time: Transmission clean-up

https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/24/das-bike-projekt-trans-input-shaft-seal/

Just a quick post about some markings that I found stamped into the engine block, just below the flywheel.

As you may remember this engine has the Big Bore kit in it, well the previous owner punched the specs into the engine block, where they can only be seen once the transmission was pulled!

In the bottom right corner you can see the ledge where the numbers are punched in.

“840 C.C.”

S.B. WEST – the previous owner

“10.5-1” the compression ratio

“3-78” the date the work was done

should i stamp my inititals here and the date before I button the engine back up?

Click to Enlarge!!

Next up: Yank my Flywheel!

https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/24/das-bike-projekt-yank-my-flywheel/

So from our previous entry, we saw that the stock R75/5 clutch components were not up to the power of the hopped up, high compression, hot cammed Reg Pridmore engine.

How to get a clutch designed to deal with more grunt? Not as hard as one might think.

The stock 1973 engine put out 50HP and 44 ft lb of Torque. But using the same block, in 1973 to 1976 BMW built the sporty R90S with 67HP and 56 ft lb of Torque. After doing some research, I found that BMW designed a heavy duty clutch, which is still available for the R90s and later bikes, and that it would all fit on my bike, without modifications. Below are comparison pictures of the old and new parts, click to enlarge…

New clutch, pressure ring and pressure plate

New clutch, pressure ring and pressure plate

old and new pressure plate face

old and new pressure plate back

Note the new clutch plate has 2x the rivets

Note the new clutch plate has 2x the rivets

Note the new pressure ring is a LOT more beefy than the old one…

old and new pressure ring

New and old pressure ring….

Up Next: Yank My Flywheel!

https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/23/das-bike-projekt-motorbike-archeology/

Pulled the transmission to get at the clutch, found lots of gunk in the bellhousing, something is leaking, and once the clutch was apart we can see that, yes indeed, it has been “slipping a bit” kind of a BIG bit, actually. Click on photos below to enlarge!

Driveshaft Removed

Lots of oil and gunk here…

look below the pressure ring, MOUNDS of goo…

trans, swingarm, final drive and fender gone

Removing the glop

Clutch Removal Tool ™

Backing the pressure off of the clutch

clutch parts seperate

Down to the bare flywheel

Ready to pull the flywheel

This is the Pressure Ring, it should NOT look like this!

clutch disk, for as bad as it was slipping, looks not too bad

This is the Pressure Plate should NOT look like this, either

Galled, shreded, torn up…….

Up Next: How to build a better clutch?

https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/22/das-bike-projekt-how-to-build-a-better-clutch-2//

Well the deeper we get, the more we learn, right? SO, In a nutshell we have fluid leaking from the driveshaft tube into the final frive, then out of the final drive into the brake drum and onto the brake shoes. So I will buy the tools to blow apart the drive and replace some seals. Also we have an alignment issue. Remember that the earlier /2 bikes, and the later /5 bikes have very different frames. The motor looks like a bolt in, but it isnt. one issue we have is that the driveshaft is too short, so you either have to insert a spacer, or use the shaft from a later bike. I remember asking which method he used. I think i remember him saying he replaced the shaft. He did not. The input drive gear is heavily worn JUST on the front 1/3rd of the gear. So thats 2 more expensive parts i need to order, the gear, and the spacer.

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NEXT CHAPTER: CLUTCH INSPECTION!

https://kirkusblog.com/2011/02/22/das-bike-projekt-inspecting-the-clutch/

Anke-Eve does not have a leaky final drive!